Peaky blinders — Local Paddo

Photography: Dillon Seitchik-Reardon

Driving through New Zealand’s South Island in a van feels like an antipodean rite of passage. It seems there are more campers, trailers, caravans and motorhomes in NZ than any other vehicle on the road. And no wonder. It’s the best way to traverse this extraordinary island, giving you the freedom to move about with your home on your back. You can set off in the morning with a map on your lap and not know where you’ll end up that night.

In the summer of 2019-20 we spent three weeks roaming the South Island, uncovering an astonishing array of natural beauties — from multi-day hikes through finger-like sounds in the north to camping in alpine huts in the south, while also tramping through farmlands, crossing rivers, eating cheese scones (around every corner) and enduring sandfly swarms worse than mosquito plagues. There were also earthy hot springs, icy glacial pools and refreshing river baths.

Three weeks was the right amount of time to cover quite a lot of ground, leaving a few things to return for.

CHRISTCHURCH

Spend a few days exploring this quaint city where remnants of the 2011 earthquake are still present, with crumbling buildings sitting next to modern builds. It feels like the city is still grappling with its new(ish) identity, but there is a lot to enjoy. Call us book nerds, but we often seek out libraries in cities when travelling. Turanga, Christchurch’s new city library, is an excellent example of a place for the people. After the library in the same spot closed following the earthquake, a new and superior modern four-storey facility was built in its place. Christchurch also has a bounty of culinary highlights. Choices include Mumbaiwala, a contemporary Indian dining near the city centre; Thai Container, a beloved Thai food outlet in a shipping container on the outskirts of the city; and the Riverside Market overlooking the Avon River in the heart of Christchurch.

NORTH

Leaving Christchurch, drive north up Highway 1 via Kaikoura, a cute surf town with two long, gnarly right-hand points along the coastal road. You’ll want a 4/3 wetsuit even in the summer on the South Island. Just north of Kaikoura is Nin's Bin crayfish shack in Rakautara. It's perfectly positioned for a pit stop to eat garlic butter crays, crumbed paua (abalone) and whitebait fritters on a roadside overlooking the beach.

Queen Charlotte Track

This hike is 72km, or three to four days, through Marlborough Sounds. It's less busy than the popular Abel Tasman Track, also in this area, and has amazing mountain landscapes.

Nelson Lakes National Park

Schedule time at this beautiful, mountainous national park in the central north based around two large lakes, Rotoiti and Rotoroa. There are several multi-day hikes that leave from the lakes. Spend a morning tramping the Mt Robert Circuit, and highly recommended is an overnight hike up to Angelus Hut.

Maruia Hot Springs

A hot spring in the mountains where you can stay the night (there’s accommodation on site, or sleep in your van). There are both indoor and outdoor springs here available 24 hours for guests.

Woodpecker Hut

If you are in the Punakaiki region on the west coast, check out Woodpecker Hut, a rustic dream home overlooking the rugged coastline. The fire-powered hot tub is an incredible way to spend an afternoon, evening or morning.

WEST

Franz Josef Glacier

There are plenty of short walks to have a look at the magnificent, albeit shrinking, FJ Glacier. Roberts Point Track is our pick. It’s a steep 11km return walk that winds up sheer walls through open scrubland and glacially polished rocks, and the views from the top offer a panorama of ice, waterfalls and mountain peaks.

Continuing south, there are several short walks off the Haast Highway as you drive the Haast Pass between the island’s west coast and Wanaka. Try Roaring Billy Falls, a 1km walk off the road through wet rainforest to huge falls and a blue river over a rocky riverbed. Or on the roadside, Fantail Falls, is a large waterfall with an icy river flowing below. Magnificent.

The Blue Pools

Expect insanely beautiful, crystal clear blue water at these landmark natural waterholes along the Makarora River. The pools are a 20-minute walk from the Blue Pools carpark on the Haast Highway. Take your swimmers and a towel so you can dunk into the icy glacial water. After your swim, stop in at Wonderland roadside bar on the way towards Wanaka. Stay at the very picturesque Boundary Creek DOC Campsite ($8/person/night) on Lake Wanaka, 60km north of Wanaka township.

SOUTH

Wanaka

A resort town on Lake Wanaka with views of snow-capped mountains and the gateway to the Southern Alps Mount Aspiring National Park, this is one of the south’s most scenic towns. There’s a big focus on the outdoors here — hiking, kayaking, mountain biking in summer, skiing in the winter (Treble Cone and Cardrona are the closest spots).

Roy’s Peak

Hikers should prepare for this stunning 1500m high, 15km return walk, about five to six hours up and down. It’s steep but so worth it for the views.

Gillespie Pass Circuit

This is a three-to-four day hike up a river valley, over a high pass and down another river valley. Start at Young Valley and stay at Young Hut the first night (no booking required). Day two, heard over Gillespie’s Saddle (1500m). It’s steep and sustained but presents breathtaking aspects. Most people stay at Siberia Hut (bookings are required) or camp nearby. Allow an extra day for a side trip up to the ice-filled Crucible Lake (1172m). Then walk down to Wilkin Valley to get back to the road (six to seven hours from Siberia Hut). You can opt to take a speed boat from Kerin Forks, which is two to three hours from Siberia Hut.

FURTHER SOUTH

Queenstown

Beautiful Queenstown is a great base for exploring Lake Wakatipu, The Remarkables ranges (popular for skiing) and Richardson Mountains.

Ben Lomond Track

This is a steep, popular, summit hike at the heart of Queenstown with epic views over Lake Wakatipu. If you start the hike from town (Lomond Crescent), the full walk will take four to five hours. You can also catch the gondola up to the Skyline complex, which will shave an hour off your timings.

Glenorchy

Check out this small town 44km from Queenstown with an unmissable drive (also, the location of Top of the Lake TV series). Stop into Mrs Woolly’s General Store for a pie or enjoy a coffee outside at the Trading Post. There are countless tramps around here, most notably the Routeburn Track and Greenstone and Caples Tracks.

Fiordland

There’s lots to explore down in the nether regions of the South Island, but you’ll need a car. Te Anau is the gateway to the many Great Walks and adventures such as the Milford Track, the Kepler Track and Doubtful Sound overnight boat cruises.

Dunedin

Back on the east side, this coastal city is a university town with a heavy Scottish influence. Urban renewal is spreading across the city, with lots of small cafes and eateries tucked into heritage buildings. The architecture here is striking, ranging from Edwardian Baroque, to neo-Gothic, to Modernist.

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park

Mt Cook is New Zealand’s highest mountain at 3724m. There are glaciers everywhere you look and they provide a constant grumbling soundtrack during summer. The Hooker Valley Track is a popular 10km return walk and will take two to three hours along an easy flat path over suspension bridges to the Hooker Glacier (and lake). There is also a more challenging hike up to the Mueller Hut, providing mind-blowing 360-degree panoramic views.