Bay of plenty

Images by Dillon Scheick-Reardon

Vaucluse is a quiet, leafy suburb that exudes the withdrawn formality that is characteristic of intergenerational wealth. It is confidently grand rather than glitzy. The physical and cultural landscape is long established and not changing any time soon. Enormous trees arch over the streets, creating tunnels of interwoven branches. Tightly held prestige homes hide behind neat gardens, tall hedging and fortified walls give little away from the street. Thus, it is fitting that one of the city’s most beautiful and peaceful jewels is hidden within this crown. Parsley Bay Reserve is a secret, public entrance into this exclusive world.

The reserve cannot be seen from the road and is only accessible by a steep, hidden road or a narrow walking path that threads its way through a canyon of estates. It’s impossible to deny a sense of discovery and awe as you step into this deep valley. The iconic white cable bridge spans the high walls, with a grassy reserve opening into a long, deep bay underneath. It feels like a tiny fjord designed for your own personal leisure.

We like to set up at the north end of the bay, walking along rock ledges patrolled by eastern water dragons. Near the jetty, a concrete ramp descends into the calm water with swimmers congesting the entry with familiar conversation. Regulars and locals are gracious and curious — a motley crew of artists, former government officials and magnates unified in their playful spirit and enthusiasm for this special place. At high tide, the bay is deep and clear, ideal for a long lap around the perimeter.

We dive in from the ramp, swimming along the net and turning towards the beach. The complete circuit passes under the bridge and returns to the ramp along the seawall promenade. It’s about a 300-metre-lap and on a clear day the sandy bottom seems to radiate light. The best thing about ocean swimming is that there is always something to look at. We often find ourselves chasing bream, yellowtail, wrasse, eels and stingrays. There is a lot to explore and the seascape changes with every season.

Parsley Bay is hard to leave. It’s a place that we go to with the intention of lingering for a couple of hours and end up staying all day. We inevitably roll out towels on the jetty or sit on the rock outcrop above. Time passes a little too quickly, lost between the pages of a book, conversation and narcoleptic episodes. We may never have a residence around here, but it doesn’t stop us from revelling in our own little slice of the estate.

Local knowledge

Swim along the shark net to find a colony of seahorses. If you are lucky, you will spot one of the pot-bellied pregnant males. There is a resident population of about 11 females and five males.

Nearby

Chargrill Charlie’s

2/779 New South Head Rd, Rose Bay

One of our favourite things to do when visiting Parsley Bay is to stop past Chargrill Charlie’s and pick up some lunch (or grab dinner on our way home). This Portuguese chicken shop has several venues across Sydney, each one of them bursting at the seams to cater for locals dining in or taking away. They specialise in whole rotisserie chicken, grilled and marinated in house-made sauces like Peri Peri and lemon and herbs, with hot chips and a selection of fresh salads piled high. Take a ticket and wait in line to order. Go there hungry.

Vaucluse House

69A Wentworth Rd, Vaucluse

One of the most tranquil locations in the area to kick back with a book. Vaucluse House is on heritage-listed Indigenous land, a colonial-era residence, with farm stables, an expansive vegetable garden and in the back streets of one of Sydney’s most genteel neighbourhoods. It’s like you’ve stepped back in time. You’ll wonder why more people aren’t here enjoying this environment, but make the most of it. You can explore the gardens for free (good for a picnic) and there is a cafe serving high tea. There is an entry fee to go inside the house/museum.

Kutti Beach

9/6 Wharf Rd, Vaucluse

This is one of the most hidden beaches in the city. We heard about it from a friend, but it took a few trips to find the entrance. Follow Wharf Road until it dead ends at the Vaucluse Amateur Sailing Club. Go right up to the building and look left. There is a very narrow set of stairs leading to the beach. Descend the steps and open the gate at the bottom (it should be unlocked). Follow the narrow path along the wall to the sand. The best bit — it’s dog friendly.

This is an edited extract from Places We Swim Sydney by Caroline Clements and Dillon Scheick-Reardon, Hardie Grant Travel ($39.99)