Equal bilum
Caroline Sherman was walking down Queen St, Woollahra, one day when an unusual textile exhibition caught her eye.
“It was in 2015 when I happened to walk past an exhibition called Marketi Ples. It was funded by Pacific Trade Invest to promote artisanal products from the Pacific,” Sherman tells Local Paddo. “This is when I first discovered bilum.”
Bilum are traditional woven bags made by the women of Papua New Guinea. The bags are created by twisting and looping string or wool in a rhythmical movement, with each bilum made by hand in intricate colours and patterns that tell traditional stories.
“I was struck by their joyous colour and design, and I talked with the weavers that first day who told me that they were looking for an international market. I travelled to PNG a few months later and have been going back ever since.”
Sherman — the daughter-in-law of Sydney art and society figures Gene and (the late) Brian Sherman and the wife of Oscar award-winning producer Emile Sherman — instantly found a passion that she has spent eight years developing into a brand that not only sells beautiful products, but helps the talented craftswomen behind the goods.
“Among Equals is a not-for-profit brand dedicated to supporting weavers and their families in PNG,” Sherman says. “It is about merging art and community with fashion and the ancient practice of bilum weaving. Our collaboration allows us to honour the weavers’ traditions while highlighting their exceptional and consciously crafted work.”
Last month, Among Equals opened an exquisite retail outlet in Paddington in a wing of the newly repurposed former Sherman Galleries on Goodhope St. The store is both a showroom for Among Equals products and the brand’s global headquarters.
The atelier has been decorated internally and externally in the earthy colours and textures of Papua New Guinea to create a sense of place appropriate to the Among Equals products in a design done by celebrated interior designer, artist and music video director Don Cameron.
Cameron also did the stunning interiors for the larger part of the erstwhile gallery, which has been converted into a space for See-Saw Films, Emile Sherman’s production company. See-Saw’s movie hits include Lion and The King’s Speech, and its television credits include Slow Horses and The Top of the Lake. A cabinet in the foyer displays an abundance of statuettes including several Golden Globes, a BAFTA and “there’s an Oscar here somewhere”.
The two businesses work side-by-side, with Among Equals nestled in a smaller location next to the production house. For Caroline Sherman, the showroom offers an extraordinary location to showcase the brilliance of her PNG artisans.
“It is a dream to see the bilum collections hanging here. Don has created a gorgeous atelier for us to house the stunning bilum,” she says. “His vision for our new studio took in everything from the weavers’ palette to the modernity of where we are taking the brand. The whole gallery has been remodelled and it’s absolutely beautiful. We feel so lucky to work in such a gorgeous space.”
For Sherman, who does not take a wage from the business, creating an income for the women weavers of PNG, and a home to showcase their talents, is clearly a passion. And it’s a passion that has paid off, for the bilum are now retailing in places as varied as London’s Selfridges to the American online store, ShopBop. Then there are high-end boutiques from Dubai to Seoul, Tokyo, Munich, Lisbon, Vancouver and even in the Bahamas, as well as in cities and towns across Australia.
“The brand is built around ethical and sustainable guiding principles,” Sherman says. “We are committed to paying the weavers premium prices, at the same time improving livelihoods and investing in their industry’s future.
“When we talk of sustainability, we are equally dedicated to fostering the time-honoured tradition of weaving and working with natural and considered materials.
“Every Among Equals bilum is unique, woven either from hand-rolled fibres made from native plants, or unravelled yarns pulled from knitted jumpers that have been donated to the community for the purpose of recycling. The woven patterns are culturally significant talismans that speak of the weaver’s independence and strength, and her craft.”
Sherman says the public is invited to pop into the store to see the work, to hear about the craft and to possibly help the women weavers of PNG.
“We have such extraordinary bilum bag collections in store, sourced from most regions in PNG. By buying a bag you directly impact 10-15 people. We are focused on empowering women through trade, building a platform that has expanded globally. Every bag tells a story, they really are works of art.”
Sherman says her mother-in-law, Gene, a well-known and loved figure in Paddington, has been “an incredible support and inspiration to me so it’s an honour to present Among Equals in what was once home to Sherman Contemporary Art Foundation and the Sherman Centre for Culture and Ideas.”
Among Equals
20 Goodhope St
Monday-Friday 10am-4pm and Saturday 11am-3pm